Fact Sheets
On this page you will find useful factsheets on many subjects ranging from basic care of your pet, through to information on specific conditions your pet may be suffering from.
For ease of finding information the sheets are arranged according to species and may be downloaded and printed for future reference.
No part of the sheets may be copied, or distributed for any other purposes.
Although we take the utmost care to ensure these factsheets are correct, no responsibility can be assumed for any inaccuracies contained herein.
Hibernating your tortoise
This leaflet refers to the Mediterranean species of Tortoises (Testudo spp) such as the Greek spur-thighed tortoise, Hermann's tortoise, marginated tortoise and Horsfeld's or Russian tortoise. Other species of tortoise often come from the tropics or desert areas of Africa, and should never be hibernated.
Hibernating your tortoise
Hibernation is a procedure which recent research indicates should be undertaken
with far greater care than the traditional method shown for many years on Blue
Peter! This method of placing in a box in autumn and removing when they wake in
the spring often results in a hibernation, under U.K. conditions, lasting from
October/November to March or April. However, the ideal maximum hibernation length
is two to three months, with longer hibernation periods leading to dehydration,
and excessive weight loss, which have knock on effects throughout the next summer,
often leading to a premature demise of a beloved pet.
Instead the procedure should be planned from before the autumn equinox. The process
should start with a vet check to ensure the health of your tortoise. At this time
the autumn worming dose should be given, and the decision as to whether to hibernate
or not should be taken. If a tortoise is to be hibernated then the temperatures should
be allowed to fall slowly (to around 15 degrees Celsius) so the tortoise slows down
and stops eating. Most tortoises should not eat within four weeks of hibernation to
ensure the intestinal tract is empty at hibernation. If this is not the case then the
food in the intestines can become rancid, causing (often fatal) infection during the
hibernation. During this period the tortoise should be encouraged to drink (placing
in a shallow basin of tepid water will often do this) to prevent dehydration. As the
tortoise continues to slow sown so it should be transferred to a box, lined with paper,
and moved to its hibernation area. This is where the main difference to the Blue Peter
method begins. The ideal hibernation area is a fridge maintained at 5-8 degrees Celsius.
This close control prevents the temperature dropping too low (temperatures of 2 degrees
or lower risk blindness or even death to your tortoise), or climbing too high (if
temperatures reach 10 degrees or higher your tortoise will begin to wake, often urinate
and then go back to sleep, without any fluid reserves, so die from dehydration). One
question often asked of this type of over-winter accommodation is "what about air
holes?". Despite Blue Peter punching holes in their boxes for their tortoises, it
is known that a hibernating tortoise will use oxygen at such a slow rate the amount in
a closed fridge is sufficient to sustain it for some time. This coupled with
the air change that will happen when you check your tortoise each day, and weigh your
tortoise each week, means there is no danger of suffocation.
Your hibernating tortoise should have a full bladder as it hibernates (hence encouraging it to drink in the run up to hibernation); this will actually form an important fluid reserve as he/she sleeps. If at any stage in the hibernation you notice that your tortoise has urinated, then you must move to wake it up before it dehydrates.
Your tortoise will normally lose 1% of bodyweight per month in hibernation. More than this is often the first sign of something going wrong. It is for these reasons above that you must check your tortoise on a daily basis and weigh it weekly.
Waking your tortoise from hibernation
When the allotted ten weeks are up, or if you notice a problem, then you should wake your tortoise. This is again done gradually. Initially, if the thermostat on the fridge will allow it, turn the fridge up to 12 degrees Celsius. If the fridge will not allow it, then move your tortoise, in its box, to a cool room with an average temperature of around 12 degrees. Within a few days you should notice your tortoise has started to move in his/her box. At this stage the temperature should be increased to above 15 degrees. Your tortoise will then start to become active within a few hours and should be moved to a heated pen or vivarium. At this time it should also be given a bath in tepid water twice a day to rehydrate it and start its gut moving again. It should at this time also have food offered to it again. If your tortoise will allow, you should also try and look inside its mouth. (It is an idea to ask your vet to show you at the pre-hibernation check so you know how to do it and what a normal tortoise mouth looks like). If there is anything abnormal seek immediate veterinary attention or your tortoise will not start to eat again. Don't be surprised if it takes up to a week of this before your tortoise starts to eat properly, but any tortoise that has been properly warmed, has drunk and is healthy should be eating within this time. If not, seek veterinary assistance immediately. Otherwise it should be a matter of keeping him/her warm in the vivarium/pen and business as usual.
Any problems or queries please do not hesitate to contact me at the practice.
David Holah BVSc., MRCVS
Although we take the utmost care to ensure these factsheets are correct, no responsibility can be assumed for any inaccuracies contained herein.